Get the look: hair barcoding at KWK by Kay Kwok S/S24

Get the look: hair barcoding at KWK by Kay Kwok S/S24

Get the look: hair barcoding at KWK by Kay Kwok S/S24

Come backstage with session styling stalwart Nick Irwin, as he creates an otherworldly hair look for KWK by Kay Kwok S/S24

Kay Kwok is a Hong Kong fashion designer known for his futuristic and contemporary designs. He combines avant-garde fashion with digital influences to create an unconventional aesthetic, perfectly exampled by a 3D-printed custom-made art piece designed for Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour.

His first time working with Kay Kwok, this season Nick Irwin transported us to another planet with a futuristic hair look centred around the concept of hair barcoding. The idea behind the show was to tap into Kay’s references towards futurism, while also maintaining the individuality of each model. With this in mind, Nick and his team were able to craft an almost barcode-like effect using a gelled strip placed in certain areas of each model’s hair. 

The Session Label hero products

The Jelly
“We’ve set the hair with a great product called The Jelly, which gives you a glossy, almost plastic, futuristic feel with the finish. It’s a lightweight gel that you can comb and manipulate the hair with.”

The Coat
“The Coat is a super, super light shine spray. If you use lots of it and spray close to the head, it makes the hair super glossy. We’ve used that with a wide-tooth comb over the surface to a give an almost barcode-like feel to the hair.”

The Strong
“To make the hair hold in the area we’ve added the gel strip, we use The Strong – a super strong hold hairspray.” 


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Get the look: sports luxe

Get the look: sports luxe

Get the look: sports luxe

At the annual Central Saint Martins White Show, sports luxe styling reigned supreme. Hair lead Clare Hansford shares how she created the wonderful wet-look

BA Fashion students at Central Saint Martins delivered a high energy, high impact catwalk for the annual White Show in December. ‘Sport is our fashion’ was the brief for Clare Hansford of Headmasters, who led the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris hair team. Working with ID Artists and team members from Portfolio salons, collectively they created looks for 140 models with just three hours prep time.

Hair was treated to look sweaty and damp. Depending on what the model was wearing and the hair type, with varying levels of product to reflect how hair can look during sporting activities End results ranged from damp curls around the face to a soaking, wet look finish reminiscent of “playing squash for two hours,” Clare said. Forget your next gym class, this is all the sporting action you need!

As the theme was ‘fashion is our sport’ the hair was treated to look sweaty and damp. Clare and the team created a really high gloss, high shine for a really sweaty look, or something with less product that embraced natural hair at the back but with gel round the front for a glistening hair line. Depending on the model’s hair type and what would work best with the outfit, some had tendrils and waves clinging to the skin, and for others a very high ponytail or braids, but all had a high-shine, glistening ‘sweaty’ hairline.

The hair was prepped with a diluted mix of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Tecni.ART Fix Max Gel and about a third of water for more pliability. This was great to work with on thicker hair, as made hair easier to work with while also being hydrating. For Afro models, Clare used L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Curl Expression Curls Reviver to detangle and hydrate without weighing down the hair. Finally, any fringes or ponytails were sprayed with a little L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Tecni.ART Fix Design gel spray for a glistening finish.


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Exauce Imbo: My Take On… An Afro mid taper fade

Exauce Imbo: My Take On… An Afro mid taper fade

Exauce Imbo: My Take On… An Afro mid taper fade

A precision trim given a textural twist, Exauce Imbo – owner of EXSTUDIO barbers – puts his spin on a modern men’s classic

“There are a number of variations when it comes to overall style and design features you can add to a mid taper fade to tailor it to your client’s wants and needs.

First, on Afro textured men’s hair, shape plays a big role. You can keep the Afro smooth, with a crisp and defined round shape, which gives a clean, classic look that is perhaps more suitable for business professionals.

Switching up the shape and introducing more natural texture on the top gives a more relaxed and individual feel to the cut.

“Also, there is the choice of the level where you begin to taper the fade. Despite the name of the cut, you can play with transition height – it doesn’t always have to be ‘mid’ as seen on my client. The option to take the taper higher or lower depending on customer preference can really transform the overall result. On the majority of my haircuts, I like to line up the edges of the hairline to add an extra pop and contrast to the haircut.

“For a modern and younger feel, I like to finish off the styling on mid taper fades using a twist sponge to enhance the individual curl pattern of my client’s hair. First, before using the sponge, I always make sure that the hair is fully combed out and detangled so that it forms neat curls and isn’t picking up damage during styling.

“Personally, I also like to moisturise the hair beforehand with my EXTREATMENT Curl Cream. This extra hydration not only helps to enhance the twists or curls, it makes sure the strands are less prone to breakage and makes the ‘rubbing’ motion which encourages the curl formation much easier.

“I gently rub the sponge against my clients hair in a repeated circular motion, maintaining the same direction of movement all over the head. I start by focussing on the tips of the hair, gradually applying more pressure as I get deeper into the Afro.

“The key is to not press down too harshly, as that can cause the hair to break and to keep pressure uniform so that the curls form evenly. You then just keep rubbing until you have created the desired look you are after!”


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James Earnshaw: My take on… A big, ’70s blow-out

James Earnshaw: My take on… A big, ’70s blow-out

James Earnshaw: My take on… A big, ’70s blow-out

Giving a 2022 twist on Farrah Fawcett hair, James Earnshaw shares his take on big, bouncy waves

“I love this ’70s blow-out because it has really moved from a trend to something more classic. People love it, the flicks and texture always perform super well on social, and also it’s such a fun look to add colour with too!”

Blonde '70s hair

It’s really important to start with the perfect prep. I use lots of Amika Brooklyn Bombshell Blowout Spray, which is great as you can really layer it up to create a strong base. I apply this all the way through the roots and ends. It’s also good to add a small amount of smoothing cream to the ends – I love Amika Supernova Moisture and Shine Cream for this is as it’s super lightweight. 

Using my ghd helios hair dryer, I blast dry the hair to remove lots of moisture. This is when I’ll then divide the hair into sections. Sectioning off is so important for the direction you want the hair to sit, I like to take all my sections diagonally. Working diagonally back means the hair sits a lot better, and this also creates more width which is key for that ’70s feel.

 

Once sectioned I use the dryer and round brush, starting around the face and over-directing the hair forward as I blow the ends backwards. I go over each section a few times and switch between hot and cool to really seal in the curl and volume. It’s important to use lots of tension and pull the hair out as you dry. Once I reach the crown, I like to alternate the direction I dry – some towards the face and some backwards – but I still over-direct the roots forward. 

After the hair is dried, I leave it to cool ideally for around five minutes so it can really set. I then spritz with lots of Amika Un.Done Texture Spray and get my hands in and massage the roots, this breaks up any section marks and helps me to see how the hair is falling. Next, I tilt the head back and brush the hair upside down to create as much width as possible, before applying more texture spray.

Always use your fingers to manipulate the hair so it sits exactly how you want! You can finish with hairspray, but personally I prefer texture spray as it is drier and keeps the hair looking more modern and fluffy. This finish is perfect for creating the ultimate Insta hair.” 

See more from James

 

 

 


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INFORM TEMPLATE

INFORM TEMPLATE

New guidelines revealed for allergy testing

We grabbed what you need to boost your business from the fascinating speaker line up

In a two-day celebration of inspiration and motivation, Wella RED Business Network Live welcomed guests to the Rum Warehouse of the Liverpool Titanic Hotel where more than 250 salon owners, managers and their teams gathered to hear from a carefully selected agenda of speakers from outside the hairdressing industry. The lineup consisted of business experts, creatives and professionals with exciting life experiences, passionate stories and useful tips, to provoke thoughtful discussion, valuable guidance and networking opportunities... and we’ve got five business lessons to share from them to help you better your business! 

Focus on the right thing

“When your ‘why’ is strong, you can’t go wrong,” says author and sales expert, Alison Edgar MBE, who is on a personal mission to teach business how to thrive and survive. Sharing ideas from her most recent publication Smash It! The Art of Getting What YOU Want, Alison emphasised how your mindset is your motivator.  

“You have to treat others how they want to be treated,” said Alison. “Next time you’re faced with a struggle, ask yourself, can I control it? If not, you can change how you react. Avoid wasting time on something you can’t control, and instead find time to strategise the things you can control, like filling your diary and motivating your team.” 

One of the practical tools Alison is known for is ‘Alison Edgar’s Big Balls’ on how to not drop the ball. 

Build your brand, build their trust 

Sarah Yorke, founder of The Stylebook family, faced the challenge of finding new clientele when she relocated. Having used sites like Rightmove and Autotrader, Sarah envisioned a platform that hairdressers, salon owners and qualified students could use to access available opportunities and form networks in the industry. “It was important for me to create the Stylebook Education to differentiate the quality and abilities of work from the Stylebook Directory, as well as the purpose and intention of what opportunities people are seeking,” said Sarah. “The Directory had to be refined to be recognised as a trusted platform, that’s the only way you can guarantee customer trust.” 

Customer trust is crucial in your businesses ability to grow, and word-of-mouth is out of your control, so oftentimes it can feel like a dead-end. “Work with human nature, not against it and understand human biases,” said. Richard Shotton, author and expert in applying behavioural science to marketing. “People use effort as proxy for quality. Be more transparent about the efforts that go into something, and it will be recognised.” 

Maintain the interest, retain the talent 

A panel on the secrets to success shared valuable ways people can adapt their ideas to propel their salons. 

“Creativity, consistency and service are fundamental,” said general manager of HOB Salons, Natasha Grossman. “We foster a win-win culture, finding out the individual goals of the team and if they’re successful, then we’re successful. We’ve met all our KPIs since implementing this.” 

“We work with different levels of KPIs for different stylists’ performance levels,” added Colin McAndrew, managing director of Medusa. “Having real, strategic promotion points, at two times per year, encourages the right expectations for our team and their career path progression is important.”  

Managing director at KH Hair, Darren Messias, also encourages career pathing. “It’s important the team knows the company and what it can offer them,” said Darren, “New team members will always have an induction to be introduced to all the roles they will be able to work towards from trainer or tutor to salon manager or franchisee.” 

Retaining team members and nurturing them through their progression journey is also vital to the business at Westrow. The Westrow Academy has noticed new methods for recruitment through their young talent. “We get the kids to attract the kids,” admitted Steve Rowbottom. “They’re a great model for recruitment, through social media networks. We create a safe place for kids to come, that they want to come to – they have to be happy.” 

Similarly, Sarah Mason, salon director at Sarah Mason Professional, has also felt the impact of using social media – managing all pages herself and seeing that a staggering 98 per cent of bookings comes from its Shopify account on Instagram. 

“I don’t want to promote an unrealistic perception on social media. I want to be touchable and for people to relate to what I do for a living,” said Sarah. “It’s very important for us to be who we are and share filter-less work.”

Technology alone isn’t the answer 

Digital marketer and data expert Christian Howes argued that while data can play into marketing and give you alternate perspectives with the way consumers behave, technology alone isn’t the answer. “You need the human intelligence layer in order to interpret the data and utilise it affectively.” 

Daniel Ashville, founder of Ashville Aggregates, has grown his brand awareness by reaching a new generation through Instagram, TikTok and YouTube. “People do for people and people buy from people,” he said. “Put your team’s needs before your own to make them feel valued. Different people are motivated in different ways, but you must know them and communicate with them. It’s the only way you’ll get the best out of them.” 

You matter too! 

Psychiatrist and neuroscience specialist, Professor Steve Peters, touched on his mind management model. “I have seen patients that don’t need a doctor, they need to understand their own mind,” said Steve. “The ability to manage yourself is one of the most important success factors. Ask yourself: are you managing your mind optimally? And are you looking after your psychological health?” 

Another advocate for self-consideration is Jono Lancaster, who was born with the rare Treacher Collins syndrome, which causes facial differences. “We all have differences, unique difference that need to be celebrated and encouraged,” said Jono. “Almost daily, we get asked how are you doing? But how many times do we answer honestly? You have the power every day, a single sentence, a single handshake, a passing conversation that could change someone’s life.” 

A true believer in nurture over nature, business leader Ellis Watson found that he’d put so much effort into nurturing others and their careers, that he wasn’t participating enough in his own life. “I wasn’t pressing the ‘sod it’ button for myself. Your business is fuelled by your passion and energy – the most important way to progress your career. Don’t underestimate the power of human interactions and remember that your attitude is more important than your resources.” 


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